Wednesday Nov. 13 02
Surf report:
This weekend I was surfing at Diamond Head. I was surfing my short board and I was having a good time. I asked my dad if I could use the longboard and he said yes. He said “Catch a few waves and then come in.” So I paddled out and caught one wave, and that was good. Then on my second wave I fell. I came up and turned around and hit myself on the head with the long board. It hit me right between te eyes! It hurt. I cried. And I had a big puffy nose, I looked like an alien. Now I have a black eye.
Surf report:
This weekend I was surfing at Diamond Head. I was surfing my short board and I was having a good time. I asked my dad if I could use the longboard and he said yes. He said “Catch a few waves and then come in.” So I paddled out and caught one wave, and that was good. Then on my second wave I fell. I came up and turned around and hit myself on the head with the long board. It hit me right between te eyes! It hurt. I cried. And I had a big puffy nose, I looked like an alien. Now I have a black eye.
So listen to me kids, never come up too quickly after you fall off your board and always come up with your hands over your head!